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New Adventure (Read 516 times)

RunFree7


Run like a kid again!

    So my knees made it though the flying pig but I knew after that I needed to find something different to let my knees rest and get ready for the fall marathon (most likely columbus). So a few buddies of mine decided a Sprint (mini Triathlon) would be a good idea. I had a few questions for anyone who has done this before. 1.) Do you think it would be a good idea or bad idea to do the breast stroke the whole time for the 400 meters. I did it in 12 minutes and I felt fine doing the Bike and run. 2.) I bought a 24 speed riders bike but have no clue what all of those gears do or more importantly when to use which ones. I have been keeping it on the middle ring for the crankset. I believe that would be the 2nd set (is the smaller one the 1st set?) I then switch the free wheel a little up and down depending on if I am going up a hill or on a flat. None of the hills I am doing are that steep for my practice rides but for the race they could be. Can anyone explain when to use which set of gears one or some sort of guide to them? When would I switch on the left side between the crankset?
      2011 Goals:
      Sub 19 5K (19:24 5K July 14th 2010)
      Marathon under 3:05:59 BQ (3:11:10 Indy 2010)
      You may never need all the gears, but generally, what you want to do is use them to maintain a smooth, efficient cadence (the pace of your legs going around.) When I rode, I'd strive for a cadence of @90 rpms. Some bike computers have a cadence feature: You put a sensor on the crank and then on the frame. You can also just count 'em out. You don't want to be "pushing" big gears. That'll be no help to your knees. So, switch the gears depending on the terrain. Ride a bunch and you'll start to figure it out. I gotta say, I can't believe the bike shop didn't help you with this stuff. Maybe you didn't buy at a shop though. Can't help you at all on the breast stroke.


      Queen of 3rd Place

        I'm not sure if this is what you were confused about or not, but the front chainrings work such that the smallest one is the easiest, while the rear cogs are the opposite - the large ones are easier. Therefore, the gears go from small front chainring + large rear cog --> small front + smallest rear middle front + large rear --> middle front + smallest rear large front + large rear --> large front + smallest rear However, you should not use the small front + smallest rear (not good for the chain), nor the large front + smallest rear for the same reason. While you're riding, just work your way through the gears for rolling terrain, using changes in the rear cogset. For sudden grade changes, you can make fairly rapid gearing changes by shortcutting to using front chainring gear changes, then dialing in the gear using rear cogset changes. This takes a bit of practice, so you might want to ride around somewhere with rolling terrain and just play with the gears. Get used to which shifter does what until it's second nature. Finally, it takes some practice to get your cadence up (doing it smoothly is the tricky bit), you shouldn't shoot for 90 rpms right away, but you should be applying relatively easy pressure to the pedals. Don't forget to use your calves, and don't forget that the backwards part of the pedal stroke is important. I've heard it described as scraping dog poo off the sole of your shoe. Smile Hope this helps, Arla

        Ex runner