The Bike Shop

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New Components (Read 272 times)

    Just bought myself some new aerobars for my tri-bike. I currently have a set of Profile-Design T2+ s-bend aerobars that are very uncomfortable on my wrists. I bought the bike used from a girl that was about 4-5 inches shorter then me. She had a short stem on it and the seat was as low as it could go and I believe the bike was still a little big for her.

     

    Since I've been riding it on the trainer this winter I decided to start working on my fit and position. I started playing around with seat height, fore and aft, aerobar reach, bar height, blah blah blah. I've come to the conclusion that the previous owner had also shortened the aero extensions and now that I'm trying to flatten out my back and get lower, the aerobar's are too short for me. I've installed a new the stem which is a  couple of cm's longer.

     

    I ordered a set of Profile Desgn T1+ Vipor Carbon bars because I wanted a little less bend in my wrists. I'm thinking I may need to recable it after I install the aerobars because the cables are a little tight right now and I think I will need more cable with the different style of bend plus they should be a tad longer.

     

    Next purchase will be a shorter crank (170mm or 167.5mm) with smaller chain rings. I'm not going to go to a compact crank, but my current rings are a 54/42 and I want a 53/39 gearing.

     

    The pain that hurts the worse is the imagined pain. One of the most difficult arts of racing is learning to ignore the imagined pain and just live with the present pain (which is always bearable.) - Jeff

     

    2014 Goals:

     

    Stay healthy

    Enjoy life

     

      The new aerobars arrived yesterday and I just had to install them last night. Just as I had thought, the derailer cables are now too short and I have to get new ones. Funds are tight in the Toast household this month so it looks like I'll have to ride my road bike until I can get the cables installed. Actually I'll have to try and get the bars cose to where I want them before taking it into the shop for the new cables so I can make sure I have enough "play" left in them to fine tune the fit.

       

      The pain that hurts the worse is the imagined pain. One of the most difficult arts of racing is learning to ignore the imagined pain and just live with the present pain (which is always bearable.) - Jeff

       

      2014 Goals:

       

      Stay healthy

      Enjoy life

       

        When I did my recent build I used the Jagwire Racer DIY cable kit, have been pleased with it, and recommend it. I'm used to using Shimano and the 105 shifters I bought included a cable kit but the Jagwire (bought earlier) seemed much nicer. 

         

        I wish I knew something about the subtle differences in clip on bars. I had been using the basic Profile Century but, if I don't get a tri bike (less likely), will be in the market for clip ons in the next couple months (more likely). Based on shape, would have imagined myself liking the T2 more than T1 but that's just a guess. Probably, for me, whatever is comfortable will be fastest.

         

        Right now my top component need is a seat. I've tried two different ones (basic Avenir & Specialized Tri-tip Gel) and don't like either. I'll probably just go to a shop and let them help me (and a good bit of my money) to one. I've decided it's one component I'm willing to spend a little extra on.

          Since you're willing to spend some cash on a new seat, you may want to check out a Cobb seat as they have a no questions asked 180 day return policy. Seems like a great way to buy a seat and try it out for awhile before your stuck with it.

           

          The pain that hurts the worse is the imagined pain. One of the most difficult arts of racing is learning to ignore the imagined pain and just live with the present pain (which is always bearable.) - Jeff

           

          2014 Goals:

           

          Stay healthy

          Enjoy life

           

            Since you're willing to spend some cash on a new seat, you may want to check out a Cobb seat as they have a no questions asked 180 day return policy. Seems like a great way to buy a seat and try it out for awhile before your stuck with it.

             

            Interesting saddle...Lots of good information on his web site. They are not cheap though. Shocked

             

            Thankfully, saddle issues haven't been a problem for me.

             

            BT, in regards to your aerobars...I'd go with the comfort. The "reduced" drag because of the hand position in the S bend is lost the first time you squirm around repositioning stiff wrist.

             

            Century bars are built for rider comfort. They are called century bars, not aerobars for a reason although they do make you more aerodynamic. I have the standard Profile Design one peice century bar on my Single Speed Karate Monkeye 29'er right now. This bike will be used in an upcoming Gravel Metric century. I'll need the extra hand positions since I'm looking at 5 or more hours in the saddle.

             

            Anyhow...When I do ultra events on my road bike I'll move them over to my Lite Speed.

             

            Jagwire = Good Stuff...and I love the color selection!

            www.hplg.net  The Human Powered League - Solo Cup Series - Trail Building

              Since you're willing to spend some cash on a new seat, you may want to check out a Cobb seat as they have a no questions asked 180 day return policy. Seems like a great way to buy a seat and try it out for awhile before your stuck with it.

               

              Just scoped them out and the one I'd try (SHC) is 200 bucks. Ouch! I'm not in a huge rush right now, fortunately. I'm thinking about putting a tri seat on my road bike since the likelihood of also putting clipons on it is high. Anyone been doing the same? Any downside to that idea?
                Just scoped them out and the one I'd try (SHC) is 200 bucks. Ouch! I'm not in a huge rush right now, fortunately. I'm thinking about putting a tri seat on my road bike since the likelihood of also putting clipons on it is high. Anyone been doing the same? Any downside to that idea?

                 

                I have a profile design Tri Stryke I saved from my Quintanna Roo.

                 

                If your interested I'll make you a good offer. It's sitting on my Ebay pile right now.

                 

                http://www.trisports.com/prdetristsa.html

                www.hplg.net  The Human Powered League - Solo Cup Series - Trail Building

                  Just scoped them out and the one I'd try (SHC) is 200 bucks. Ouch! I'm not in a huge rush right now, fortunately. I'm thinking about putting a tri seat on my road bike since the likelihood of also putting clipons on it is high. Anyone been doing the same? Any downside to that idea?

                   

                  I have an Adamo Race on my tri bike right now and am looking to swap out for either an Adamo Road or a Cobb Max. The Race model is just a little to hard for me but the Adamo design definately works for the numbness problem I was having with my original saddle. IF you're interested in the Race I'll sell it.

                   

                  The pain that hurts the worse is the imagined pain. One of the most difficult arts of racing is learning to ignore the imagined pain and just live with the present pain (which is always bearable.) - Jeff

                   

                  2014 Goals:

                   

                  Stay healthy

                  Enjoy life

                   

                    Alright folks, after much hemming and hawing about what kind of seat to get, how to make my road bike a tri bike, etc, etc... I recently came to the conclusion that my road bike is actually a road bike. That doesn't mean I won't be using clip-on bars this summer but, for now, it's a road bike and I'll set it up as such. Therefore, I got myself a straightforward seat that seems to hit the sweet-spot of budget and weight. Just a few miles so far but so far so good.

                     

                    That's all ok because I've yet to shift my training towards this summer's 70.3. I've got no snap on the bike. After the inferno that was Boston I'm running another stupid marathon later this month for reasons I can hardly remember, therefore more unbalanced training. I'll probably suck at the 70.3 anyway so why go nuts fussing with equipment? Wish me luck.

                     

                    Below gratuitous phone pic.

                     

                      Saddles...I'm never sure what to think.

                       

                      There is a huge difference in price point alone. Then you need to consider materials, padding, relief, nose length...all of this and then you still need to put it on the bike and get the right height, tilt and forward / rear aft !

                       

                      I have 7 different bikes and run 7 different saddles. They range from the stock WTB that came on the bike to a Brooks Proffesional.

                       

                      Luckily I have never experienced numbing in my junk.

                       

                      When it comes to saddles, specifically for saddles that you will be riding on for a solid 2 hours, your posture and seat position may be far more important than the saddle itself. If you are properly dialed into your bike posture wise then you are really never fully sitting on the saddle. Again, I'm not talking about a bike you are taking out for a 6 mile leisure ride down the river trail. What I mean is: When you are pushing the bike then a portion of your weight is supported by your legs...not all by your ass. A more forward, aerodynamic position will also lessen the forces on your posterior. (riding in the drops) Those people who buy road bikes and then tool around at 10mph are generally the ones that have the most seat issues. They are also riding in an upward posture which puts more pressure on the perineal area.

                       

                      Riding at a higher wattage in the drops on a road bike will yeild the least amount of saddle discomfort.

                       

                      Which brings up another point...Time in the saddle. You have got to toughen up those area's that support you on the bike. This includes hands, arms and upper back. This, in my opinion, is why I have not encountered saddle problems. I ride a lot.

                      www.hplg.net  The Human Powered League - Solo Cup Series - Trail Building

                        New aerobars for the tri bike. Zipp Alumina Clip with 25mm risers. Also mounted a Speedfill A2 waterbottle between the bars.

                         

                        Pic of the Pain Cave from my ipod. I also recently added a new saddle to it. Its a Cobb V-Flow Max.

                         

                        The pain that hurts the worse is the imagined pain. One of the most difficult arts of racing is learning to ignore the imagined pain and just live with the present pain (which is always bearable.) - Jeff

                         

                        2014 Goals:

                         

                        Stay healthy

                        Enjoy life

                         

                          Next purchase will be a shorter crank (170mm or 167.5mm) with smaller chain rings. I'm not going to go to a compact crank, but my current rings are a 54/42 and I want a 53/39 gearing.

                           

                          I also pulled the trigger on a used set of 165mm Ultegra cranks with 53/39 gearing at the end of March 2012.

                           

                          The pain that hurts the worse is the imagined pain. One of the most difficult arts of racing is learning to ignore the imagined pain and just live with the present pain (which is always bearable.) - Jeff

                           

                          2014 Goals:

                           

                          Stay healthy

                          Enjoy life

                           

                            Nice. You are going to run out of things to upgrade soon. What's left? RTS?

                             

                            Report back on those zipps after you get to know them. If I upgrade my base bars and don't want to spend for carbon it's an obvious choice.

                              Nice. You are going to run out of things to upgrade soon. What's left? RTS?

                               

                              Report back on those zipps after you get to know them. If I upgrade my base bars and don't want to spend for carbon it's an obvious choice.

                               

                              Some Zipp R2C's would be cool, but I'm not about to drop another 300 on them.

                               

                              I got the Zipp Vuka Alumina Clip - top mount kit during a Thanksgiving sale from The Tri Shop online for $79.99 so I could not pass that up as the retail for $120. Apparently they were NOT supposed to be included in the sales promotion but my order must have slipped through. I was seriously considering grabbing a couple sets and selling them for a couple bucks profit but decided against it. I posted the awesome deal on Slowtwitch and others tried but couldn't get them for what I paid. I am still using the carbon PD extensions as the Zipp's did not include extensions.

                               

                              The reason I was interested in them was they seemed extremely adjustable and I was in need of something other then the T2+ aerobars that I had. I have a thick chest and wide back with little flexibility and have a difficult time getting my elbows together. I made some pad extensions for the original PD bars to get my elbows out wider, but there was too much weight on them and they kept twisting or slumping down where they clamped to the extensions. The Zipps have more surface area to clamp down on the extensions.

                               

                              I also bought the Zipp pad extenders and now have a wide range of adjustments to try and get comfy in the aerobars and so far so good. They are staying were I set them but I am also just on the trainer and not hitting cracks or potholes. Thats where the real test will be, on the open road.

                               

                              I've put about 10 hours on them and am pleased with them. They are much more comfortable then the F-19 pads the T2+ bars came with.

                               

                              The pain that hurts the worse is the imagined pain. One of the most difficult arts of racing is learning to ignore the imagined pain and just live with the present pain (which is always bearable.) - Jeff

                               

                              2014 Goals:

                               

                              Stay healthy

                              Enjoy life

                               

                                Ya know, initially I was thinking you were talking about the Zipp base bar, not the clips.I can't recall what I thought about my clips, which probably means they weren't an issue. I'm thinking about the Zipp Vuka Alumina base bars. The basic bars that came with my bike work ok but feel and look a little cheezy so it would be more of a feel and aesthetic upgrade since it would probably only save me one watt on the road.

                                 

                                With all the snow on the ground and a long run in the legs from yesterday I took the opportunity to do my "recovery run" on the bike trainer. I should get on it more but the moment my ass hits the bike I start putting a shopping list together.

                                 

                                I need a new seat since my road bike seat went to my CX bike and my POS tri bike seat went to the road bike after I replaced it with an overpriced Adamo.  I'm not in the mood to experiment so I'll probably just pick up another Specialized Toupe.

                                 

                                ...and then the list goes on:

                                New front brake for the tri rig.

                                New base bars for the tri rig. (thinking Vuka Alumina)

                                New pedals for the tri rig (thinking Speedplay Zero)

                                New mtb/cx shoes

                                New 31.8mm stem and bars for my road bike to sharpen up the front end handling. (I built it up with old 26 mm bars.)

                                Torque wrench

                                 

                                So that's $600+ and would push back any consideration of a fast wheel set. Fortunately, it's for the benefit of multiple bikes.

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