I started running g at my local state park where I have to leash my dog. Right now I use my retractable leash looped on my waist pack. She runs about 15 feet ahead of me. There is some shock involved when she pulls...and some bruising on my hips. I started looking at leash systems and found two bungee, hands free systems. Iron Doggie and Stunt Puppy. I was wondering what you all use when you run your leashed dogs.
And Mandy...you run with a hound...which can be challenging... how do you fare in the winter? Doesn't he cause you to slip .ore when he pulls?
As much as I was against leashing my dog...I find it actually helps my pace and she loves going almost as much as she does unleashed. Not as much joy...but she seems to e joy being my pacer.
Any advice would be welcome!
January , 2022 Yankee Springs Winter Challenge 25k
Just my opinion but lead breaking your dog is more important than what kind of leash you use or have. This will help to minimize the pulling and yanking that causes the bruising, again just my opinion. As for the the leash I am fairly certain most Ordinance's require a 6 ft leash or less but I am not 100%.
I run with a cat on a logging chain.
LB2
The retractable leash sound dangerous for running a dog. I don't like those things in general.
I just use a standard 3-6 foot leash but normally just carry it in my hand and let my dog run free. I will heel her back and leash her up for the occasional people and other dog encounters. She used to be awful on a leash, but now is very good and I can leash run her for miles now without difficulty if need be. I do agree that you need to get your dog trained to come back on command, heel, etc.,to run them well on a leash. Mine is happy to go either way, but prefers to run free obviously.
In dog beers, I've only had one.
I would prefer her off leash...but I have not had much luck training her to stay close or come when I call her. There are a lot of mtn bikers out there....and she would be a hazard to them.
As a side question...when you run on mtn bike trails do u run the same direction or opposite? I prefer to be a buffer btwn my dog and the bikes and run the direction the are going but wonder what your experiences are. I hate dealing with mtn bikers with or without my dog.
The retractable leash sound dangerous for running a dog. I don't like those things in general. I just use a standard 3-6 foot leash but normally just carry it in my hand and let my dog run free. I will heel her back and leash her up for the occasional people and other dog encounters. She used to be awful on a leash, but now is very good and I can leash run her for miles now without difficulty if need be. I do agree that you need to get your dog trained to come back on command, heel, etc.,to run them well on a leash. Mine is happy to go either way, but prefers to run free obviously.
Never thought about the direction to run on mountain bike trails. Most of the trails around here are multipurpose and I do not see bikers going in one particular direction. Plus, the mountain bikers around here for the most part don't seem to be so consumed in their ride that they worry about a runner and his dog. Often they will yield since technically we (I) have the right of way.
You might look into an e-collar as a training tool. While the thought of zapping your dog may sound harsh it's the tone (beep beep) warning that I use on the device. That and voice has turned my gsp into a great trail companion. She still likes to wander, but knows her boundaries and knows the signals to come back.
I run mountain bike trails often. I go either way. If running towards incoming bikers I am able to see them in advance to get out of their way. If running with traffic on somewhat technical trails I am sometimes running as fast as they are biking and sometimes have to pass them. Around these parts the bikers are very polite and friendly and even though technically we have the right of way I will always yield to them.
I agree with DPC on proper lead training. I always laugh when watching some folks get pulled around by their dog. It is so easy to get a dog to heel properly. Invest in a choke cain and spend 15 minutes a day for just a few days and voila. As far as teaching a dog to come back to you that actually starts with the dog knowing you are in charge. First the choke chain and proper heeling to establish you as the alpha then you keep the choke chain on the dog and use a long line in the back yard. Give the command once and a hard pull to get the dog coming in right to you and sitting in front of you. Repetition and consistency. And don't be afraid to blast the dog early on with the choke collar. If they let out a yelp it is from protest and not pain.
I am a huge advocate of E-collars. But you have to be careful with them. Do not overuse. They should be more of a reminder to the dog of the training they have received and not for the actual training. Do not use on your dog the first time out in the field with no other means of controlling your dog. It should be introduced to your dog in the garage or back yard with a long line attached to reel in the dog and of course heaping lots of praise on the dog when it arrives at your feet even if you have to pull it in.
BTW--when I get out the E-collars my dogs get excited as they know some adventure is gonna be happening. And even while hunting all season I only have to fry them 2-3 times for the entire season. Again the E-collar is for long distance control and to enhance the proper training you've done, And by having that control you may actually save the dogs life.
I probably should clarify if you have never used a choke collar. When you put it on the dog make sure you have it on so the links slide back down when the chain is relaxed. And don't do a constant pull where you are actually choking the dog. As you start walking and the dog starts surging you make sure to have good hold of the lead and you give very hard sudden jerk back. Hard and sharp each time the dog starts surging. When it's walking next to you you heap the praise, when it surges a little a quick snap of the lead. It will let out howls of protest at first but you have to see it thru. It won't take the dog too long to realize how it wants to walk or run with you. Real easy.
On our trails the mtm bikers go a prescribed direction because they built jumps and tricks into the trail.
I know my dog should be better trained. She is a special needs dog and extremely fearful of just about everything and everybody but me. I am afraid an e collar would shatter what confidence she has gained over the years. I tried to take her to obedience class but the trainer said she is too fearful for a class.
A prong collar can have your dog healing and running by your side in just a couple of training session. They look cruel but what is worst a couple days training or fighting your dog anytime he is on a leash. With a prong collar you don't want to pull hard all it takes is a couple snaps of the wrist and the dog will be walking by your side. It took my young dog twice on the pong collar to learn to walk and run beside me when leashed, now I can run or walk him on a kite string if I wanted. A trained dog should never pull.
On our trails the mtm bikers go a prescribed direction because they built jumps and tricks into the trail. I know my dog should be better trained. She is a special needs dog and extremely fearful of just about everything and everybody but me. I am afraid an e collar would shatter what confidence she has gained over the years. I tried to take her to obedience class but the trainer said she is too fearful for a class.
Well you may be right regarding an e-collar but if she trust you she still should be very trainable with a lot of praise, proper collars and long lines. They want to please, get praised, and stay comfortable. But they do need to know that when they are called the first time they have to respond. When my dogs ignore my one call I will run them down. They'll look back after ignoring me and see me coming towards them and stop right there. But always no matter how mad you may get when the dog does arrive back to you on its own to praise it. Coming back to you should always be good.
I use a variety of leashes depending on the situation.
Stunt runner - stunt puppy hands free: Mostly for sidewalks and wider trails or when I'm also pushing DS in the stroller. This works well if you don't want to be holding something in your hands, however with all methods it helps tremendously if your dog is trained to heel. Otherwise they just pull on you and that is annoying and potentially dangerous. There is a small section of bungy that helps if they jump at something, but the goal should be for that not to happen. Downside is that it is harder to pull them in close if you encounter other dogs or people.
Standard 6ft leash: Mostly for street/sidewalk or wider trails. Nice for close in control and to keep them focused. My GSP listens pretty well, but his instincts tell him to constantly hunt and sniff so I have to keep on him a bit so the short solid leash is good for that. Downside is that I find this too short to run singletrack trails. Doesn't allow much room for speed variance when working thru technical sections. My dog doesn't slow down for technical parts(or really anything for that matter...) so its a good way to end up on my face if I'm suddenly in a rock garden.
16ft retractable: This is my go to single track running leash. Most people have issues controlling their dog on retractable leashes and think they should just have the full range of motion at all times, that is where the problems come from with retractable leashes. I always hold the handle in my hand and shorten up the length if approaching other people or dogs. I find it difficult for a dog to heel on singletrack and he just ends up bumping into my legs and tripping me up constantly. So allowing him to run right in front of me on the retractable leash works really well. It also allows for some variance in speed if going thru a technical section.
Whenever on a leash I use a prong collar as well. There have been too many times when I'm on the verge of falling while running trails, even without a tug from the dog. The prong collar helps make sure he doesn't pull on me right as I'm trying not to fall while cruising down a technical trail.
The trails around here are usually pretty busy so my dog is leashed most of the time. He doesn't bother people or other dogs but is pretty big and VERY fast and I don't want to be responsible for him knocking somebody over as he comes flying around a bend in the trail at full speed. Also, as you said it is actually easier to focus on my run when the dog is leashed and I'm not worrying about where he is or if he is going to get into trouble. When I do run him off leash on less busy trails he almost always has an e-collar on. I would agree with others and say that when used correctly, e-collars are much more humane than some alternatives I have seen. After the initial training, I rarely have to use the e-collar at all but it is there in case I need it.
Is this a cross-fit work out?
One further step to take as you correct the dog is to turn the other direction as you are giving the command of "here" or "come". This teaches the dog to follow you and to be aware of where it is you are going at all times, and as Harrier said when the dog gets back to the position you want them in PRAISE the dog. One other thing you should want your dog to do is to either stop or sit whenever you stop moving no matter what. Good walking obedience will translate into a good running partner.
I don't recommend an e-collar for you or your dog for 2 reasons. 1. Most dogs can handle them and it sounds like your dog isn't one of them and 2 if not taught how to properly use an e-collar an owner can ruin a dog.