Surfing (Read 716 times)

I spent my first day on a board yesterday at 30 years old.  Today I am very sore in lots of places that I didn't know previously existed on my body.  Great cross training work out.  Too bad I live in the mountains.

Never did stand up (got close a few times) but had a blast all day getting pounded by surf and catching a few waves.

The closest I got was getting up on my knees.  Then the overwhelming feeling of "What's in the water?" took over and that was it! Keep trying, you will get it!

BTW, I know a (very infrequent) poster who took surfing as PE in college.  Perhaps multiple times.

 

I'm pretty sure you can major in surfing here at UC Santa Barbara - I mean why else would students spend all their time surfing? You can probably also major in surfing at UC Santa Cruz but UCSB has the edge though with its own campus beaches and surf breaks. Check out this video from 2008 when the surf was up, way up, at campus point. I wandered down from my office to join the crowd on the bluffs watching. You could hear the waves pounding all over campus. And no, I didn't get in the water, I'm not that crazy (or even remotely skilled at surfing).

John

I'm 34 and just surfed for the first time 2 weeks ago. I was able to stand, but I had it easier than you.

I took a lesson and they put me on a 12' board and the waves were perfect for learning (smallish and you could ride them for like 45 seconds).  A couple days later I went out again on my own with an 11' board and could already feel the difference in size.  I'm sure I would not have stood up  on a 7' board.

I surfed for about an hour without a rash guard and I know what you mean about being sore.

If ever I needed body glide and band-aids it was then.