rectumdamnnearkilledem
What can those of you who have ridden these models tell me about them? Which would you recommend to a noob? Anything I should be aware of...pluses, minuses, etc.? Would one model lend itself significantly better to racing than the other, or is it more a YMMV sort of thing? I would also like to do some century rides, so long-ride comfort will also be an issue.
We'll probably be looking at bikes in the Spring, as soon as the roads are clear enough to ride, so March or April, I'm guessing.
Getting the wind knocked out of you is the only way to
remind your lungs how much they like the taste of air.
~ Sarah Kay
Kirsten
While I haven't specifically looked up the 09 or the 2010 models to see what componenets are on them I can tell you this.
You are at the right price point. There is a HUGE difference between a $700 bike and a $1000 bike. There is a not so huge difference between a $1000 bike and a $2000 bike.
You said "Ultimately I'll end up with whatever fits me best". This is the key. A bike that fits !
If your buying a new bike.....Oct / Nov is a really good time rather than waiting. I've been considering buying a new bike and have been looking......Many of the 2010 models are priced the same as the 2009 but some of the componenets have been down graded. E.G. I just purchased a new Mountainbike. I got it discounted $200 because it's an '09. The '09 has Hydraulic disc brakes, the 2010 has cable disc brakes but is selling at the same price the '09 had been......saved $200 and got better components.
There is very little money is going to buy you in Sprint Triathlon. I love passing guys on thier $4000 bikes, giving them a little nod and saying...."Dude......Nice Bike"
Good luck shopping !
DH is hilarious...he has a 5 year old Specialized Roubaix Pro...he's all about the Dura-Ace stuff. So he starts looking at the components on these "entry-level" bikes and getting his bike-snobbery on. Then I remind him that he's the one who doesn't want to sink more than a grand or so into my first road bike (nor do I...I'd rather spend a year or two figuring out what I like, then upgrade if I end up really enjoying wheels). He's really having an internal struggle over this.
The voice of mile 18
Tri Rule #1 of Triathlon Training/Racing - If Momma ain't happy nobody is happy
I have a Schwinn Fastback Comp (Road Bike) that has Shimano 105 components and I have a Quintana Roo Seduza (Tri Bike) with Dura Ace.
I raced both those bikes in two different Sprint distance races. There was barely a difference in my bike splits.
Admittiedly, I love the Dura Ace. Very smooth, very fast shifting but I can't say they make me faster. You can always upgrade later......If you have the right size bike.
Also.....I loath gear talk. I'm not big on buying a better time. I'd rather talk about training.
My Rant Here
I do wish you the best. Triathlon is a fun sport that offers many challenges.
I'm hoping to get by with a relatively inexpensive bike that fits me well, a saddle that doesn't make my girly bits too pissed-off, a pair or two of shorts, shoes/pedals, a couple of tops with pockets in the back, and that's about it. And lots of miles in the saddle.
At least I don't need to worry about wetsuits with duathlons.
Options,Account, Forums
Wasn't there a long thread on saddles for women?
I spotted this short one, but I thought I saw a relatively long one.
Anyway, I just know several women who have gone through a number of saddles trying to figure out what works. I'm guessing that means the saddle is kind of a separate issue from buying the bike -- maybe more experienced people can chime in?
It's a 5k. It hurt like hell...then I tried to pick it up. The end.
Yep. Interesting...my MIL and I have the same saddle (some Serfas saddle with a big hole up front) and she wasn't sure she liked it until she got it angled right. And I think part of my issues is that I have it on a clunky, ancient mtn bike that was likely not sized right for me. I think I should have been fitted for a size down. So I'm forced to lean too far forward...which means more pressure on my girly bits.
My saddle also may be too squishy. Hubby swears by a firm saddle to transfer pressure to sit-bones, rather than letting it sort of spread-out and put pressure where a person doesn't want it--up front.
The saddle is an often over looked part of the bike. If your going to be spending hours on the bike upgrading the saddle is a must. The problem is, to really determin what works, you need to spend some time in the saddle.
On my Tri-Bike I have a Profile Design Gel......which works great on this bike but when I put it on my road bike I hated it. Besides pressure points you also need to watch out for hot spots. The squishy saddles almost always are the culprit for giving one a good rub down.
Your position on the bike can also make a difference with the saddle comfort.
Zoom Zoom
I picked up my new mountain bike last night. While I was there I took a Cannondale CAAD 9 out for a little ride. A very very nice bike for the price. Ultegra components....sweet shifting, good looking, nimble and fast bike. A nice stiff frame.....I liked it alot.....especially for the price.
What kind of bike did you get? My hubby has a Cannondale mtn bike...one of those 29ers with a lefty fork. It's such a big-looking bike, but he's 6'2" and built more like a football player than a cyclist.
I'm back on basically the same bike I was on 10 years ago.
I purchased a GT Avalanche 1.0
Basically a mid level bike. It's the same Hard Tail frame that has been the staple of the GT design for years.
My last bike was a Diamondback full suspension.
Deciding on a Hard Tail was easy. 29'ers were not around back in my hay day so I had to investigate a little. While intrigueing and one can certainly make the arguement for one I chose to stay with the 26" tires. Mainly because the races I am targeting have a harder surface component in the course.....not all stumps, jumps and rocks. The 26" wheel is supposedly a little faster but the 29" is better in the technical single track.
I ride a CAAD 4 and love it. But before you buy I'd do the following:
1. Shop the brands you want -They all have different features. Start your search by price range.
2. Once you have about 5 types - go test ride them. Get sized at the stores. (very important)
3. NEVER buy this year's model. It's like shopping for a car - value is lost as soon as you sit on it.
4. Buy via ebay. You can find the make, year and model you want with your right components for a lot less.
5. Learn to do your own tuneups. Spend the money on a stand and the right tools. Invest in Bycling magazine, and buy a how-to book.
Heh, better yet...be married to a guy who is WAY into bike repair and maintenance...he has like 6 bikes, at least 3 of which are in working order...the other 3 are projects. As long as I can change my tires I'm good to go.