Climbing: Outdoor Previous Next

9/4/2018

9:00 AM

200 m

8:00:00

0.02 mi / hr

Health

160 lb
0

Weather

80 F

Ratings

6 / 10
7 / 10
  • Map

Smith Rocks

Notes

Cinnamon Slab, 5.6 Trad: Rebel was eying this one up yesterday, but I don't think it was as fun as he hoped. But I was eager to offer to the 2nd pitch to get back into the Trad scene. It was a shorter and easier pitch.

Moonshine Dihedral, 5.9 Trad: A nice looking corner crack for a harder trad route. Rebel did a good lead and I did a slow clean as I had 3 pieces that gave me a good amount of trouble (thank god for stemming!).

Spiderman, 5.7 Trad: This was a keystone of Smith Rock and I think Rebel wanted to lead it, but it was my turn and in line with my Trad progression for the day. Plus, I was wearing red and blue! This was a cool route, only really felt a bit run-out going over 1 ledge. Rebel did the shorter/easier 2nd pitch, though it may have had the sweetest/hardest move past a chimney to an exposed slab.

In Harm's Way, 5.7 Mixed: My lead, another trad start, somewhat interesting. But once I got to the ledge, I looked up and could only see bolts, no features. Where were the foot and handholds? I looked closer and it was a very spackled slab wall. So I trusted the grade and headed up. There were not many holds, but there always seemed to be one where you needed it. And the feet, while painful, were always good.

Out of Harm's Way, 5.8 Mixed. Same start as my route but then it veered off for a longer sport section. That was long enough.

Revelations, 5.9 Sport. Back over Asterix Pass and after a failed look at Phoenix and Llama, we made it to Christian Bros. I opted for a 5.9 to make things interesting. Slow and not easy but always some way to continue.

Bunny Face, 5.7 Sport. Rebel finished with this one that wasn't really necessary. I don't think I followed.

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