Tri Bike (Read 3509 times)

a Q Roo ! Damn it T-Bone, I knew there was something I liked about you.

And to the OP.....well put by T-Bone........Multiple bikes is really the only answer.

And T-Bone. Thanks for not saying "A Tri-Bike saves your legs for the run" I always want to scream when I see someone say that. Nicely put explanation.

Heh.

All this aerodynamic position nonsense -- what you really want, to save your legs, is a motor.

Without the knowing the geometry it looks like a road bike to me, I can't compare the price and I find it odd its named after the Windsor Triathlon as its just a normal sort of event, there are a lot more tough triathlons in the UK.  I've never heard of the brand over here I suppose it must be the Royal connection they hope will sell the bike..

I'd prefer to see what I'm buying first.

As someone else has touched on cycling / triathlon is very fickle so you could pick up a really good second hand bike that has hardly been used.

I wouldn't go for an out and out tri bike unless she is taking it seriously as they can be a bit shall we say twitchy also she might struggle with the high gears if there are hills.

Unless you are at a high level the detail on the bike does not really matter, I once had a good result in a MTB race with a cheap Gary Fisher hardtail that was worth less than the forks on most of the bikes I was racing against.

I am using a road bike for tris, but considering adding clip-on aerobars. Is this really effective? Do you get your bike refitted for the aero position? I've heard mixed advice as to how much this will improve my time, but at this point, I can't afford a dedicated tri bike.

There are a few models of aerobars specifically designed to work with road bike geometry--meaning the rider doesn't need to mess with a different seat post or position on the bike.  I recently picked up a used pair of Profile Design Jammer carbon GTs (for less than a pair of new aluminum ones, which are a good deal heavier).  I haven't used them yet, since they are frowned upon on group rides and I haven't done any solo rides in weeks.  But I plan to use them during a duathlon in less than 5 weeks.  This model was highly recommended to me.  I know a few other people who use the Profile Design Century bar, but it's a 1 piece loop and I wanted 2 bars--that way I'd have more adjustability in width and angle.

Be careful about second hand bikes - of course you can get some great bargains, but it's important that bikes fit reasonably well. The advantage of buying new is that a shop has lots of models in lots of frame sizes, so you have a decent chance of finding something that feels good to ride.

I'm not a bike shop employee or anything, but some other advantages:

1. The shop typically (but not always) knows much more about proper fitting for road or tri bikes than the private seller or the private buyer.
2. The original purchaser of a brand-name bike usually gets a lifetime frame warranty, but that doesn't carry over to subsequent owners.
3. The shop includes the cost of setting the bike up and fitting you into the purchase price.  Buy used and you have to pay for those out of pocket, which in my area would have run another $100-$150.
4. A shop will include an initial adjustment and annual check-ups with a new-bike purchase.
5. If you don't have all your kit, the shops usually give you at least 10% off anything you buy (with the purchase or, in some cases, for the first year afterward).

But you'll get hit with sales tax buying new.

I started looking used but couldn't find anything local.  Once I expanded my radius, the cost of gas, tuneup/setup, fitting, and full-price on gear ... buying new was about $100 more.  To get the frame warranty, the adjustments/tuneups and start a relationship with the shop, I thought it was worth the extra cost.  YMMV.

I downloaded CraigsPAL, and it was a really useful hunting tool.

I think it depends where your brake levers are mounted/accessible.