running under the BigSky
I've done a lot of tough trips in my day, this one takes the cake Tom and I have been talking about doing this for a couple of years and this year we decided to give it a go. 100-ish miles across the Bob Marshall and Great Bear Wilderness's- on snowshoes. Tom decided to bring his dog, Pepper; I let Tiny Elvis set this one out (DW wouldn't even let me consider it!).
We were hoping for a six day finish. The shuttling was a pain as it was several hours of driving from the start to the finish; we didn't get started until noon the first day. Fortunately it was pretty clear sailing and never had to don snowshoes.
The next day went pretty smooth as well, we hit snow, but it was firm enough to travel without snowshoes. Later in the day, snow got softer and we had to don snowshoes.
The next day we were on snowshoes the entire day. Occasionally decent snow, but a lot of postholing and cussing.
As we got closer to Sun River Pass, things turned worse. Snow was tough, but we started to encounter a lot of downed timber. Multipole times our snowshoes would get tangled in a downed tree underneath the snow. A couple of times we had to remove our foot from the snowshoe and literally dig it out!
Navigation was getting tougher as well, no sign of the trail under the deep snow whatsoever. Eventually we made it to the pass and over the Continental Divide into the very upper reaches of the Middle Fork of the Flathead.
The next day was rougher yet. We starting post holing right off the bat and our progress slowed to a crawl. Still plenty of downed timber to contend with as well.
We eventually made it to the upper Middle Fork. Didn't even take off my snowshoes. With as many fords as we've had (and many more to come)- not worth the time and your feet are totally soaked all day anyways.
This area must have experienced a significant wind event as not only were dead trees down, but large trees fully uprooted. Travel was slow.
That evening we realized that there was no way we'd finish in six days, but still had a shot a seven days. Fortunately we both brought extra food.
The next day we encountered yet another obstacle to travel. The trail would occasionally be in the river bottom, but mostly stayed high. The trail was on steep slopes and the snow would fill the trail tread completely in and you're forced to sidehill on a steep slope. In the morning, with the snow frozen, made it extremely tough and hazardous. Tom is cutting foot steps with a snow shovel here. A misstep here and it's adios.
Slow going, but the scenery was pretty good.
We snowshoed until late evening, not eating into our deficit at all. Was definitely going to be a seven day trip. We stopped early enough to enjoy a fire though which helps.
The following day started out pretty good. The trail dropped a bunch and we actually hiked along the river for a ways. No steep slopes, no deadfall.
We knew it wouldn't last as the trail started climbing again. While we fought blowdown most of the trip, we were about to experience the very worst of it. Trees so tangled (and 3-4' of snow) you couldn't find a good way around. Up, over, under always hampered by you snowshoes- made for very slow going.
Add to that numerous fords where the approaches to cross were steep down in and out.
Just when I thought it couldn't get any worse, I got swept at a ford and was soaked up to my neck. Tom was somewhere ahead, didn't know how far. I put a jacket over my wet shirt and started hiking, fast. My hope was that my body heat would eventually dry out my upper and lower layers. I eventually caught Tom and while my upper layer was close to dry, my pants were still pretty damp. It was time for supper and as soon as we found a drier spot, we stopped and started a fire. The fire and warm food was just what the doctored ordered!
We knew we were getting further behind and decided to hike into the dark. With headlamps on, we started hiking. Several very sketchy spots where the slope was steep, the snow froze and a slip meant the end. We finally called it a day at midnight. An hour or so later wolves woke us out of a dead sleep, so loud, the couldn't have been more than 1/8 mile away! Very near experience, but still unnerving
We were up early, ready to make it out today. For the last day or so, my left ankle was getting sore. I hit the anti-inflammatories pretty hard, but it was definitely getting worse. Nothing I could do, but press on.
With about three miles to go the ankle bad enough I was limping (with snowshoes on). Tom slowed his paced so we could make it out together.
At 2:00 PM on day seven, we finally made it out. I'd love to say "no worse for the wear", but we were both worn down to the nub, but we made it. The toughest trip either of us have ever done.
2024 goal 2024 miles
2023 goal 2023 miles √
2022 goal- 2022 miles √
2021 goal- 2021 miles √
Are we there, yet?
Wow, all I can say is Wow!
2024 Races:
03/09 - Livingston Oval Ultra 6-Hour, 22.88 miles
05/11 - D3 50K, 9:11:09 05/25 - What the Duck 12-Hour
06/17 - 6 Days in the Dome 12-Hour.
Dang! Beautiful photos and what an adventure. Everyone made it out alive, so it's a success!
Just curious - how do you take care of a dog's feet in those conditions? Does snow have tendency to ball up on the first or in between the toes?
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Tom (me also for Tiny Elvis) uses a product called Musher's Wax- something a sled dog racer came up with that prevents snow from balling up and also a slight barrier to the snow. Some folks use it year round as it conditions the pads nicely, even outside of winter.
Wow, what an adventure. I bet your families were glad to see you back safe and sound. I’m guessing Tom must be one of the usual suspects on your Bob Marshall Open team?
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He is. The last couple of years we've started together, but then he just out paces me and I don't see him again until it's over
You two (and the dog) are tough mofu's!!
I've only seen blowdown like that once up in the DE water gap. They had signs the trail we planned to take was closed but we were determined to find it and do a loop. But that was only a 5-6 mile loop in mild summer weather. It was exhausting still. Can't imagine seeing it after 6 or 7 days.
In dog beers, I've only had one.
my wife has a another name for it
Pretty good adventure Mike. Grueling. I've done half day snowshoes thru downed crap with deep snow and it just leaves you exhausted. Can't imagine it for that duration. Not to mention having wet footwear and traversing over endless snow just looks brutal. Quite the trip. Good stuff!
Was wondering what kind of temps you were dealing with and how comfortable the weather conditions were for you?
Anyway, congrats on a huge adventure thru a beautiful wilderness.
Al- thanks! The weather was pretty decent- most days highs in the mid-upper 40, lows 20-30. We would have had better snow if the temps were a little lower during the day or even more cloud cover. But all in all, we definitely hit a good window considering the time of year and that we were out there a week
Looks pretty epic, how did the dog do through all of the snow? Looks like a beautifaul area, if you had time to look up lol thanks for sharing!
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she did pretty well, better than us in most stretches- weighing about 30 lbs allowed her to stay on top of the snow much better than use even with snowshoes; if the snow was particularly bad- she would get behind us and let us break trail
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That sounds like an adventure!!!
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Sue
Way to go Warden....the weather looks beautiful. Too hard for me though...ughhh climbing over down trees in snow shoes and a pack!!! What kind of dog was it? I bet she had the best time!!!
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