Notes
Marathon surf session w/ Derek. 5ft swell out of the East with a wind coming out of the North. Made for very shifty, unpredictable waves int the waste to chest range, with head high sets. This time the bottom had to break points one was about 100 yards out the other was a sandbar probably 30-50 yards out. We tried to stay inside and catch the inner break, but it was very dumpy all day there. The outer waves were difficult to get too and were not very steep either. I thought that the inner break would have improved as the tide came in but it didn't. The wind made for a fairly strong long shore current going South. So it was difficult to stay in a good spot once we found one. I only managed to catch 2 waves all day and neither of them were very good rides. I think this had to do with 3 things. 1. I am rusty, I haven't surfed in over a year. So my timing was off and have low paddling strength now. 2. My board may be a little water logged and heavy. Which made it more difficult to paddle fast enough to get outside quickly or to catch waves. 3. Very challenging conditions. Not saying they were bad, when I was a decent surfer i could have probably caught about 5-10 waves within an hour in these kind of conditions which is still pretty tough.