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10/8/2014

8:45 AM

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Notes

2014 Surfing 16-22. 1 hour 5. Took it easy yesterday, but out today and the waves were SICK. Solid size and... can I call them head-high? Don't want to throw that out too much. Maybe shoulder-high. Double overhead on MHM though. If she ever went surfing again, that is... Less than ten people in too (although that was starting to change as I was getting out) and only me and one other guy on the lefts. And with the storm swell the lefts were totally legit. Long rides! Scored seven waves and waves 3-6 were SO MUCH FUN. Now that's why I like living in Santa Land. Gotta make the most of it. Won't be forever!

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