Notes
2015 Surfing 8-8. 1 hour 5.
The waves were ON. A bunch of cars, but only three other people in. Good size and clean. First wave was sweet. Second was UNREAL. Peaking up perfectly. The kind of wave that you might let go by if you haven't been in the water much recently. Fortunately I charged it and made it no problem. Just gotta be surfing regularly so you don't lose the timing, power, confidence..., which is what I haven't done the last two years... But felt good today. Got five nice left-handers. Stoked!
Trail run Sunday?!