Trailer Trash

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Arizona Trip Report (Read 27 times)

MadisonMandy


Refurbished Hip

    As always, Arizona is sunny and beautiful.  We had the option of choosing to visit either Tucson (which I did two years ago) or Sedona, as my parents were staying in both places this year.  While I really enjoyed Tucson last time, it was time to do something new. 

    The trip can be broken down into three parts: Sedona, Sycamore Canyon backpack, and our Grand Canyon day hike. 

    Sedona:

    Wow!  Even more beautiful in person.  Everywhere you look is another amazing rock formation in those striking reds and oranges.  Hundreds of miles of trails everywhere.  It was paradise aside from the volume of tourists.  Solitude is hard to find in this town.  For anyone that's familiar with the area, this is where we hiked.  1.)  Devil's Bridge - super touristy, but neat natural bridge you could walk over.  2.) Boynton Canyon - less people, varied terrain, actually walked through some forest, dead ended at the end of the canyon.  3.) Bell Rock - no set hike, just some scrambling around and exploring.  4.) Broken Arrow/Chicken Point/Hog Heaven - nice spot, technical mountain bike trails, lots of picturesque views.  On our last full day we rented mountain bikes and did a 22 mile loop of mostly intermediate trails.  It's mountain biking heaven out there.  I was competent enough to ride 90% of the time with only some hike-a-bike involved on some of the advanced sections.

     

    Me and my mom on the natural bridge.

     

     

     

     

    Sycamore Canyon Backpack: 

    This was the hardest hike I've ever done.  This part of the canyon (second largest in Arizona) was really wild and remote.  We decided to do the Taylor Cabin Loop (the internet said approx. 20 miles) in a leisurely (ha!) two days.  We didn't realize what was in store for us...  Day 1 was actually quite nice.  While technical, the trail was beautiful, easy to follow, and we were happy to get away from the crowds in Sedona.  As we made our way down to the seasonal creek, we quickly discovered it was no easy flowing creek.  With the recent rain and snow melt, it had turned into a full blown raging river.  And we needed to cross it.  My boyfriend, the gallant gentleman that he is, first crossed the river to see if it could be crossed.  It was high and swift, but crossable.  He first took his pack across.  Then he came back and took my pack across.  Finally he came back and escorted me across.  Thankfully we had abundant sunshine, as the river was very cold!  Stopping to eat lunch and dry off in the warm and dry air never felt so good.  The rest of the day was smooth sailing.  We arrived at our destination for the night (Taylor Cabin, an old cowboy cabin built in 1931) in the late afternoon.  My watch said we traveled 11 miles. We spent the rest of the day hanging out by the river and exploring the area before making dinner and retreating to the tent.

    Day 2 was just ridiculous.  We had to cross that damn river at least 5 times, starting right away in the morning.  It was very mentally stressful.  You didn't know how deep the water was, it was moving quickly, the floor of the river was just a huge jumble of rocks and you couldn't see where you were stepping.  I found a decent stick, named it my Gandalf staff, and trusted it to help me across.  Between river crossings, the trail hadn't been maintained in a long time and thorns had overtaken it.  So we had to bushwhack through thorny plants.  Oh, and the prickly pear.  I was wearing long sleeves on top, but my legs and hands got really beat up.  After the super slow miles of river crossings and thorns, we went straight up the side of a mountain.  Switchbacks?  None for you!  Finally we went up so high that we hit snow.  And lots of downed trees.  So let's navigate along the side of an icy and snowy mountain while climbing over and around dead trees.  That sounds like a great idea!  Finally we reached the old and unused jeep road that would take us up and over Casner Mountain.  I was so happy to not have to worry about actively dying anymore. 

    That said, the jeep road was no picnic.  It was steep, rocky, exposed, and full of mud in places.  At one point it turned into a stream from all the snow melt.  There was no hope of dry feet that day.  I thought getting down from the mountain would be easy, but it was such a slog. I was mentally and physically spent at this point.  Thankfully we had some amazing views to tide us over, but those didn't ease the pain in my hamstring.  I was very happy to eventually see the car, sit down, and stop hiking.  It definitely had the end of an ultra feeling to it.  It took us almost 8 hours to hike 13.5 miles! 

    Day 1.  Easy part of the trail.

     

    First river crossing.  Not the highest point.

     

    The fresh water flowing off the walls of the canyon was delicious!

     

    View of where we came from and after climbing out of the bottom.  This was maybe 8 miles into the first day.

     

    Taylor Cabin

     

    The river just down from the cabin.

     

    Day 2.  This is the trail.

     

    Day 2 river crossing #5 (?)

     

    A brief section of smooth sailing trail before we climbed up the side of the mountain.

     

    Up high in the snow.

     

    Views from the snow section.

     

    Mud from Casner Mountain.

     

     Views of Sycamore Canyon from the jeep road.  We were camped somewhere in the bottom the night before.

     

     

    Grand Canyon:

    I have a lot of complicated thoughts on the Grand Canyon after visiting and I'm not sure I can articulate them very well or that I honestly want to write them all down.  At any rate, people will enjoy the canyon in their own way and it is what it's become at this point.  I'm glad we went.  I'm glad we hiked down the bottom and back up in one day, although I would like to travel to the North Rim via the trail someday.  (I'll skip going back via the trail.  I'm not interested in a R2R2R.) 

    We took South Kaibab to Phantom Ranch to Bright Angel.  I feel like this story has been beaten to death already, so I'll leave you with some observations from my end.

    - Going down SK was pretty magical.  Seeing the trail snake down was really cool.  People look really miserable climbing back out. 

    - Phantom Ranch was much neater than I expected.  Amazingly lush and green.  The lemonade is good, but it's just Minute Maid.  I bought my dad a t-shirt from the bottom; they are sold vacuum packed in the size of a small paperback book. 

    - The guy who sold us our lemonade is on a schedule of 10 days on/4 days off.  He hikes in and out of the canyon to get to/from work.  They get paid for their hike in/out.  Some of his coworkers live at the bottom of the canyon for months at a time.  I was fascinated by all this.  

    - The Colorado River looked like thin chocolate milk. 

    - The BA trail surprised me with how beautiful it was.  I loved it way more than SK.  Fresh streams flowed down the canyon creating waterfalls, we saw many animals out and about, and it had more of a being *in* the canyon feel. 

    - I'm not going to lie, the hike out was difficult, but it certainly wasn't the hardest thing I'd ever done.  You just have to accept that you will be climbing forever and ever, amen. 

    - Getting closer to the top was a bit of a culture shock.  Where did all these people come from and why are they walking on ice in their flip flops?

    - In total I think we covered around 22 miles, as we parked at the visitor's center and walked 2.6 miles on the paved rim trail to the SK trail head before we even started.

     

     

     

     

    Phantom Ranch cabin

     

    Leaving Phantom Ranch

     

    Obligatory suspension bridge shot

     

    On Bright Angel

     

    Trail twisting forever upward

     

    Higher

     

    We made it out!  (With special appearance of puking sign guy.)

    Running is dumb.

    Daydreamer1


      Thanks for the report Mandy.  Loved the pictures.

       

      For some reason I really like that area of the country even though I don't like extreme heat, and creepy, crawly things. I just feel like the Grand Canyon is always calling me back.  I don't recall seeing any wildlife other than some birds or maybe squirrels on the BA and not much water either but that was the end of May.

      mtwarden


      running under the BigSky

        Mandy- thanks for the report- great photos!  The Southwest is a great area to explore.

         

        it's too bad the logistics are so tough for a rim to rim; it was definitely that last rim that nearly did me in 

         

        from the sounds of your backpacking trip, you guys might want to consider the Bob Marshall Open!

         

         

        2023 goal 2023 miles  √

        2022 goal- 2022 miles √

        2021 goal- 2021 miles √

         

        TrailProf


        Le professeur de trail

          Very cool!

           

          I would give up my current life for the life of the guy selling lemonade in  the GC!!!!

          My favorite day of the week is RUNday

           

           

          MadisonMandy


          Refurbished Hip

            DD - I really like this part of the SW, as it has more of a familiar feel with trees and some green.  I'm not sure how I would fare in extreme dry heat like that, as I've never experienced it.  It was 90 degrees in Phoenix when we flew out and it honestly didn't feel that bad.

             

            Mike - LOL. I think I will pass on the Bob Marshall Open this year.  I'm still enjoying walking without actively attempting not to die. 

             

            Jamie - ME TOO!  I had a nice daydream about that later.  The employee said he absolutely loved it.

            Running is dumb.

            Queen of Nothing


            Sue

              Yea I want the lemonade job too!!!  or any job in nature where you work 4/10!!!   Thanks for sharing..I love that place...

               

              Very cool!

               

              I would give up my current life for the life of the guy selling lemonade in  the GC!!!!

               05/13/23 Traverse City Trail Festival 25K

               08/19/23  Marquette 50   dns 🙄

               

               

               

               

               

              Sandy-2


                MM, sounds like a great trip!!!!  I hope you got to feel the vortexes in Sedona.  When we were there my kids were running around saying "I feel it, I feel it...". I always thought there were some true believers there who were annoyed.  My DW and I were laughing and trying to get them to stop at the same time.

                 

                Great photos of the ones I could see, but I'll need to see them when I get back to a real computer.

                 

                Thanks!!!

                tbd.

                AT-runner


                Tim

                  MM thanks for the report. I was following along on FB when you and/or Thom posted, and was jealous as hell.

                   

                  Sedona is spectacular. We hung out at a few bars in October and met a lot of strange characters who tried to reset our chakra points and /or magnetic field. Awesome place to hike and run.

                   

                  When Jess and I were in the canyon in October, we saw an Asian group in sandals with an 80 year old woman who had a hard time walking down. They were below Oh-Ah point . I tried in vane to turn them around and get her up, they said they would be fine and wanted t see the river. WTF .

                  “Paralysis-to-50k” training plan is underway! 

                  LB2


                    Looks like a great trip, Mandy. Thanks for sharing.

                    LB2

                    Daydreamer1


                      In the last picture it looks like you all are wearing spikes or is that just my eyes deceiving me?

                      runtraildc


                        Great pics! Looks like a great trip, too. Thanks for sharing.

                        MadisonMandy


                        Refurbished Hip

                          Thanks, gang!  It was a great vacation.  Who wants to open a little beer cart down at the bottom of the GC with me, Jamie, and Sue?

                           

                          Sandy - we were the obnoxious disbelievers at the vortex(es) too.

                           

                          Daydreamer - You're correct, we did wear spikes for the last 1/2 mile or so.  BA was iced over at the top.  Were they 100% necessary?  Probably not considering the tourists sliding around, but I was happy to have the traction.

                           

                          AT - Yikes!  I would be worried about those people.  Good grief.  I also had an encounter that was similar to that.  I was almost to the top, approx another 20 minutes to go, and a woman (maybe a little younger than me?) and her mother (late 50s/early 60s?) stopped me.  The woman was wearing a small, generic backpack and had no visible water.  The mother was carrying nothing but a walking stick.  It was probably around 4pm.

                           

                          Woman: Excuse me, can I ask you a question?  Did you go all the way down the bottom?

                          Me: Yes, we went down SK this morning.

                          Woman: So how far away is the river?

                          Me: From here?  Maybe 8-9 miles.

                          Woman: Oh!  (Turns to her mother) Maybe we shouldn't go all the way down the bottom.

                          Me: 

                          Running is dumb.

                          XtremeTaper


                            Very nice... I need to do a winter trip to AZ some year. I always end up in FL since that's where my folks are.. the pictures are gorgeous of course but dang that one hike sounds adventurous. Thanks for sharing!

                             

                            PS:... you need to talk to Warden about obligatory selfies.  Tongue

                            In dog beers, I've only had one.

                            NHLA


                              Great pics!!  Ya'll covered some miles.

                              NorthernHarrier


                                Nice!  That Sycamore canyon trip looks very interesting. You managed some pretty dicey stream crossings. Just to outdo your BF I once carried DW on my back across something similar a number of years back.   I was a little younger.  I am surprised neither of you were using trekker poles. When I wear a pack they are almost indispensable for me. Sure makes stream crossings a lot more stable.

                                 

                                I'll have to hear your complicated thoughts on the Grand Canyon some day though I have a pretty good guess. Probably the same thoughts I have regarding Yellowstone, Smokies, etc. (heavy sigh).

                                 

                                Anyway, glad you had a great trip. Well done.

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