Notes
So 30 year old forrester Josh led out up the wrong crack (to the left of the love route) to make it a little harder liike 5.5-5.7 then a nice 5.3 pitch when we regained the route. We decided not to do the 5.8 start because it was close to noon. Then after he led three pitches, two shorter one 65 meter I took off and led a nice 5.6 to a fantastic view 2/3 of the way up the wall. Then a pitch that went up to the right and after like 25 meters of nice pro on 5.7 climbing there was a huge asending traverse that I did. I'm putting it at 5.8 and I ran it out about 30 feet. that was pretty terrifying. I was doing a lot of praying. I haven't led 5.8 before and here I am 30 feet out on it! The last piece I had put in wasn't enough to hold either a 60ft fall. Then it eased up and I got a piece in and 10 more easy feet to a bolted belay and a solid cam and a sketchy stopper than came out as I tugged on the anchor so I belayed off the two good points and brought Josh up. Then I headed off to the right of the big roof and the guidbook put that area at 5.8 but it was much easier than the runout ascending traverseand then a zig back to the left and a final zag to the right and we were up on the talus field. slinging two big boulders I belayed Josh at 5:20 PM to around 12,000 ft. up and ended the hardest lead and coolest looking climb of my life. From the parking lot at Bear lake it looks so serious of a climb. It was a good time.